Category: Lifestyle


Tags: accession magazine, MICHELIN STAR, restaurant review

Michelin Star Restaurant: Sorrel in Dorking

24th October 2019

Owned and run by award-winning chef Steve Drake, there are few places as calming and relaxing as the dining room of Sorrel. The original oak beams, flawless white linen and sumptuous velvet chairs create an instant impression that you’ve arrived somewhere special.

As we take our seats it’s obvious we’re not the only ones eager to sink our teeth into the ‘Discovery’ menu – a palpable giddy excitement fills the air as the first dish arrives in the form of a split pea mousse with quails egg and truffle, accompanied by a divine freshly baked brioche.

There is an infectious enthusiasm for the food here, which comes across on the faces of all the waiting staff who fervently introduce their favourite dishes from the menu and confidently explain how each element is crafted when quizzed by excited diners. It’s clear before every dish that we are in for an indulgent treat for the senses.

 

The roasted half quail in a soy caramel foam, charcoal oil and cep aoili (or mushroom mayonnaise to you and I), made me question if I even had taste buds before this dish.

 

Whilst I know it’s not socially acceptable to lick your plate clean, the desire is so strong I start to wonder whether I could get away with it – the food is that good.

 

Other highlights include ‘Green Green Green’ a staple on the menu that changes with the season. In late summer the combination of broccoli mouse topped with kiwi and a broccoli and poppy seed leather is a talking point at the table. The originality and personality in this dish is so strong I know I’m going to wake up thinking about it the following morning.

During your visit to Sorrel be sure to take a glance into what has to be one of the most unique kitchens in Surrey, if not the UK, where eight chefs busy themselves creating these culinary masterpieces with an unusual sense of calm – no doubt thanks to the serene sunlit setting overlooking a walled courtyard garden and Steve’s cool and calming persona at the helm.

Having worked in some of Europe’s best kitchens, alongside chefs such as Marco Pierre White, Steve comments; “The goal here at Sorrel is to provide guests with something a bit different and delight them in a way they won’t expect. We’re focused on doing our own thing, being the best that we can be and using the finest produce available, incrementally changing and improving the menu year on year” – an impressive confidence that shows throughout the menu.

 

In a former life Sorrel was once an all girls boarding school in the late 1800’s. Today the heritage and unique character of the building, now totally refurbished into a luxurious dining space, creates intimate pockets in which to showcase some of the finest food you’ll sample outside of London. There is also a further dining area with a bar downstairs that can be hired for private functions. The largest table seats six, which ensures Sorrel retains an air of intimacy and exclusivity throughout the restaurant.

A private car park is a fantastic addition, allowing guests to simply relax and enjoy taking their time over each and every mouthful. That said, my advice would be to catch the train to Dorking and allow the very knowledgeable and attentive waiting staff to suggest a fine wine to pair perfectly with each course.

Sorrel then, is a place for celebration, a treat for the pallet, somewhere I would encourage indulging in the nine course ‘Discovery’ menu created by Steve and his team. Having recently added a 4th AA Rosette to the restaurant’s already impressive accolades, I for one will definitely be returning.

www.sorrelrestaurant.co.uk

 

 

Photography by Paul Judd Food Photography

 

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